oc-plain-dealer 1921-09-28

MOODS and mode—how inextricably intertwined! The feminine mood—its name is Legion. The Autumn mood, is it not also Legion? Verily. For each hour of the day, each separate occasion demands its mode—and within the mode lie countless variations of the mood. Variations, yes, thank goodness. For a woman preserves her individuality as she would her pearly teeth. Each fair creature demands the smart mode that is her self-expression. And she will not be stereotyped. Self-determination is not to be elicited upon by diplomats, to become their exclusive phrase. It has just as vital a meaning to the eternal femininity, and having once perceived it, she is not likely to let it go. What has Autumn in store for this marvelous modern woman? In what manner will the intricacies, aye, the subtleties of her mood become expressed? There are fur collared tailleurs and coats for the out-of-doors. When her desire seeks the open air, the shopping excursion, the long walk, she will resort to these. There are street dresses for the earlier fall, before the weather turns cold. There are many, many pretty costumes for her afternoons, indoors, whether she entertains or seeks amusement in the homes of her friends. And loveliest of all are the exotic evening dresses, the tremulous, subtle or gayly joyous party frocks. For these happy times she need not consider subdued tints, nor firm practical materials, but can shimmer forth onto the brightly lighted dancing floor, all one gleam of sequins. Perhaps her self-expression will demand the bouffant folds of taffeta, with tight bodice and above it gayly lunged hair. Then again she may elect to stun all beholders with the severity and bold simplicity of black velvet. usual. As with others, it double belted itself and wore deep-braided cuffs. Buttons, large and square, are distinctive on this year's suit. What will be the mood of the afternoon dress? Will it flutter, gayly and brightly, or will it demurely subdue its colors and lines? Regardless of the brilliant tones worn by the leaves in the fall of the year, the afternoon dress chooses the more sombre colors. Among these putty is the gayest—though would one call it gay?—while navy blues, dark browns and French grey alos appear. Dark grey is another good color. One brown tunic skirt had gussets of rust set in, as if it weren't content to stay too subdued. Trimmings are interesting and varied. Moire ribbon and rosettes and rhinel are some of the Moire ribbon is plunging clusters of tabs long, peeping from georgette dress box of these tabs, all its hem. Generally horizontal. More About Head trimming treated as to pattern cent the lines of the Ruffles of taffet by fraying the mast Rosettes and flowers of the dress are a ration thereof. Broidery is seen often used to embroider Canton crepe of Thursday and Friday Sept. 29 - 30 And loveliest of all are the exotic evening dresses, the tremulous, subtle or gayly joyous party frocks. For these happy times she need not consider subdued tints, nor firm practical materials, but can shimmer forth onto the brightly lighted dancing floor, all one gleam of sequins. Perhaps her self-expression will demand the bouffant folds of taffeta, with tight bodice and above it gayly flung bobbed hair. Then again she may elect to stun all beholders with the severity and bold simplicity of black velvet. This Season's Contribution Each year a number of smart and quite tailored dresses are designed. The business woman finds her daily costumes amongst these, knowing as she does, that her clothes must be more severe in line and cut, than those worn at home. Such dresses are so very good looking that many of our feminine friends enjoy them, other than those of the office. Slip-over styles are to dominate; they tell us. A straight silhouette will result, although fullness will be introduced in large pleats at the sides, over the hips. For materials poiret twill and trirotine will be favorites. Many of the wool dresses will be piped with silk. Variety is especially noticeable in sleeves. Some will be short, above this elbow. Others will be long, fairly wide, in kimono style. As a rule, set-in sleeves will predominate. This season will show us some circular skirts. Hems will be scalloped again, sometimes bound with self material, sometimes contrasting both as to color and cloth. Skirts will be about ten or twelve inches from the floor. The hosiery manufacturers will be glad, we presume, that they are not to lengthen greatly. Trimmings will be more delicate this year in tracery embroideries in narrow braid and chain stitch. Accounting the lines of a garment will be their chief duty. Coats and suit coats are characterized by lengths this autumn. Coats will reach to the hem of the dress, elaborately braided and embroidered. A low waste line will be noticeable and also narrow belts. Scarf collars with tassels are designed to wrap about one's throat, to be flung over one's shoulder. Russian blouse openings also will be used, buttoning up on the side and high on the shoulder. Krimmer and Caracul fur are favorites, and in materials duvetyns, soft woolens and veldeens. One material for a coat is the rule, with braided collar or sometimes fun handing. Interesting Vogues One of the interesting styles for call and a braided panel over the shoulders, reaching down to the front pockets under the belts. Two narrow belts crossed each other and buttoned. A high collar protected the neck, and two braided panels de- high on the shoulder. Krimmer and Caracul fur are favorites, and in materials duvetyns, soft woolens and veldeens. One material for a coat is the rule, with braided collar or sometimes fun banding. Interesting Vogues One of the interesting styles for call and a braided panel over the shoulders, reaching down to the front pockets under the belts. Two narrow belts crossed each other and buttoned. A high collar protected the neck, and two braided panels descended from the pointed yoke. A semi raglan sleeve was also braided, as well as the deep cuff. Another of the coats showed a raglan effect. Its high collar was of squirrel as well as its cuffs, which boasted a band of the same fur. It opened on the side with bound button-holes and many, many buttons. One striking feature of this coat was the treatment of the pockets. These were long slashed affairs, not horizontal but upright, bound with arrow heads at either end. Each had a line of buttons traveling its full length. An unusual sleeve distinguished this smart model. Rows upon rows of braid descended its length to the cuff. A panel of braid made its presence known and the belt doubled itself and then buttoned. A tailored model in soft marvella cloth held to a simple style with a circular skirt. Its high crush collar fastened above a side opening. Deep cuffs and stitched plain panels were the other features. Among the suits, fur collars are popular and also long coats. One of these wore a deep shawl collar of squirrel reaching almost to its deep waist line in front. Pockets stood out over the hip tucked and buttoned. Appliqued panels in the back ended in tassels. A novelty cuff with an single large button finished the sleeve. Trimmings for Suits Another attractive suit model in velour so laine had an interesting collar. This was a crush affair of fur and cloth, making a scarf to be flung over the shoulder, there to delightfully end in a tassel. Its opening was at the side and high on the shoulder. At the back wide braid below the belt went up over the shoulder and down the side front making a distinct change from the Goods in Autumn No. By-Morjorie Howe, Dixon. rious. Moire ribbons, beaded effects, and rosettes and ruffles of the material are some of these. Moire ribbon is put on in fascinating clusters of tabs about four inches long, peeping from under tucks. A georgette dress boasted a deep band of these tabs, all set on in rows at its hem. Generally the trimming is horizontal. More About Trimmings Bead trimming is more concentrated as to pattern and tends to accent the lines of the dress. Ruffles of taffeta cleverly fringed by fraying the material are also used. Rosettes and flowers of the material of the dress are appliqued for decoration thereof. Some eyelet embroidery is seen. Garnet thread is often used to embroider navy blue. Canton crepe of a finen variety is popular among the fall materials and also good georgettes and taffetas. Taffeta is the great favorite. Evening dresses this year will be filmy with wide laces. And praise be, the colors are to have it their own way. Dyed laces in ceru, grey, yellow, raspberry, and orchid will add to the fairylike quality of the party frock. For the youthful, bouffant taffeta in gray colors makes an appropriate setting. Trimmings on these are usually appliqued roses, ruffles and fruits. But to return to laces. Cascades of lace trail their filmy lengths below tightly fitted. Taffeta bodices with charming effect. Over a chiffon drop, a single full skirt of lace will fail, for the direct purpose of intriguing the beholder. A softly draped lace necklace was noticeable on some of those cootumes while others wore long lose sleeves of lace. Generally dresses for the ball carefully omit sleeves, occasionally they are careless enough to let a narrow band of taffeta cross the upper arm. But, strange to say, with these sleeveless gowns are many high necks. A flitted round effect is the usual treatment. Apparently the very low down-to-the-waistline back is to be omitted. Let those who were shocked at our past season's frocks take hope. Sports costumes this fall are self-expressive as all our other autumn moods. Black and white are combined in many, many ways. Sleeve-less jackets for the early season are great favorites. IT GIVES THIS STORE GREAT PLEASURE TO ANNOUN First Fall Show WONDERFUL, NEW AND STYLISH MERCHANDISE, WHICH WILL TAKE PLACE ABOVE AND TO WHICH ALL OF YOU ARE MOST CORDIALLY INVITED. WE DO NOT INVITATION, BUT URGE YOU TO COME, KNOWING THAT YOU WILL SEE THE MO AT HAS BEEN OFFERED FOR MANY SEASONS. THESE STYLES ARE MADE AL BY THE LOWER PRICES WHICH WE ARE ABLE TO QUOTE. THERE IS MUCH TH IMMINGS AND IN THEIR USE, THAT OUR COATS AND SUITS WILL PROVE AN BOVE AND TO WHICH ALL OF YOU ARE MOST CORDIALLY INVITED. WE DO NOT INVITATION, BUT URGE YOU TO COME, KNOWING THAT YOU WILL SEE THE MOTHAT HAS BEEN OFFERED FOR MANY SEASONS. THESE STYLES ARE MADE ALLE BY THE LOWER PRICES WHICH WE ARE ABLE TO QUOTE. THERE IS MUCH THE GIMMINGS AND IN THEIR USE, THAT OUR COATS AND SUITS WERE PROVE AN Our Different Departments WE PREPARED WITH THE VERY BEST MERCHANDISE THAT COULD BE BOUGHT WHAT IS KNOWN FROM COAST TO COAST—MADE BY FIRMS THAT HAVE ADHERE EVER SINCE READY-TO-WEAR GARMENTS WERE MADE IN ANY QUANTITY. See Our Window Displays THE S.Q.R. ST “First With the New” Wednesday, September 28, 1921 In Modes lace necklace was one of those coctumes we long lose sleeves for the ball care, occasionally they wish to let a narrow cross the upper arm say, with these are many high ground effect is the very low down-to-kick is to be omitted; are shocked at our take hope. this fall are self our other autumn and white are com- many ways. Sleeve the early season are Smart Sports Outfits A three-piece suit in jersey seems especially wearable. A straight slim-over jersey dress comes in jade, grey, rose and black. With this the simple hand made blouse is appropriate with its fresh collars and cuffs. To complete the costume a sport jacket of matching color offers its soft comfort, with two pockets just where one's hand will easily find them. A silk sweater with a plaid skirt makes a pleasant combination. Because of their gay bright colors, sports things are so very attractive. If among the wonderfully designed and beautifully colored clothes offered this fall, you cannot select a complete way to measure exactly fitting your personal needs, you are indeed an unhappy woman. You do not deserve sympathy. But you are rare. Most of us will find ourselves correctly and naturally gowned in this year's frocks, fitting as they so perfectly do, the every need of the busy day of the modern woman. A watersport recently measured from a British ship in the Indian Ocean was 1,400 feet high to the base of the overriding cloud. The column tapered from 500 feet wide at the junction with the cloud to 550 feet wide at the sea. The number of swallows that have migrated during the summer months to England has decreased during the past four years, and because of the economic value of the bird, steps are being taken to protect it and its eggs. Thursday and Friday Sept. 29 - 30 THURSDAY and Friday Sept. 29 - 30 HE TO ANNOUNCE THE. Showing LL TAKE PLACE ON THE DATES PRINTED TED. WE DO NOT STOP WITH THE MERE LL SEE THE MOST ATTRACTIVE APPAREL ARE MADE ALL THE MORE ATTRACTIVE E IS MUCH THAT IS NEW IN FABRICS, IN PROVE AN ESPECIAL DELIGHT. WE DO NOT STOP WITH THE MERE LL SEE THE MOST ATTRACTIVE APPAREL ARE MADE ALL THE MORE ATTRACTIVE RE IS MUCH THAT IS NEW IN FABRICS, IN PROVE AN ESPECIAL DELIGHT. rtments COULD BE BOUGHT; MADE IN A QUALITY HAVE ADHERED TO THE QUALITY STANANY QUANTITY. splays STORE