oc-plain-dealer 1921-03-01
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PAGE TWO
THE LOUVRE
DARLD
RUEN HATTERBOX
With the return of Spring, the occasion is the material, the garment
season of the awakening of flow, the mode
With the return of Spring, the season of the awakening of flowers, one’s thought turns to a new wardrobe—a fresh new suit of clothing to symbolize this release from Winter’s dullness and solemnity—all its heavy apparel and somber colors. As surely as the spring cometh, as surely as the leaves open, a new mode drifts into our fashions, reviving our interest and offering novelties in materials, in apparel, in the very silhouette itself.
And, herald of the new season—pray tell us, what hath this spring to offer? In what manner shall we cloak ourselves? In what fashion shall we dress? In what stuff shall our suits appear? As diverse as the occasion is the material, the garment the mode.
As to the silhouette, we are told by Paris that one must wear a low waist line, a long slim figure and appear quite unconjectured. There is a general tendency toward tightly fitted garments, but most of them are loose and unboned.
Then there is always the fascinating subject of suits. Our herald of spring whispers that suit coats will be short and gayly embroidered. There will be semi-fitted jackets, there will be borelo effects, there will be box coats. The detachable cape is still with us. Collars are sometimes rolled and very inconspicuous, sometimes high, and
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quite the thing in blouses. When or tailored or for sports wear, may appear in brilliant tinted rose, jade, green, emerald and red blue, or yellow, perchance. The suit is true of the more dressy, bleu embroideries in all over pants are the rule with these, on crepe chine and all of the sheer fabric.
Of course, when one thinks blouses, her thought will naturally turn to separate skirts. Although it is not the intention to dissect sports clothes here, still one mention the smartest of the skirts that spring has to offer. They are built on very simple lines that the blouse or sweater may actually have all the attention. A attract a good share of notice for the cheery noisiness of their plaid English tweed in black, cream cardinal red is one of these wn another is in charming Scotch fiel with the same colors. Two pretty white skirts are offered. Is in white crepe de chine all plaited, with little loops of the material travelling part way down her side. The other is white coarse cloth, gathered a little, for decoration has two very sin set-in pockets with bound edges.
Glowing Sprenters Fashion's
buttoned and embroidered.
How shall we wear sleeves in our new spring suits? Wide at the wrist is the only general rule, for some are short and others long—some are raglan, others are normal, and so it goes. Embroidery is very popular, in which white, colors and black are used.
Suit skirts continue short, plain and slim. An irregular hem is a feature of many of them broken by panels. One may wear a plain skirt with a checked jacket of matching color.
One of the French houses is showing an interesting jacket. It is made in bolero style in front but in back it becomes a blouse which separates under the arms and fastens under the two front lengths as a snug little belt. The front pieces hang loose from a single button at the base of the high collar.
A word as to materials: Wool poplins are favorites—fine wool serges are also in demand, as are gabardines, reps, bures, loosely woven home-spuns and covertas.
To many a woman, her tailored dress is her boon companion. Particularly is this true of the business woman. For the cooler days she may enjoy a coat dress of serge, or serge and satin—for the warmer weather crepe-Canton or crepe de Chine. She may have her preference in sleeves whether long and snugly fitted, or very short or very loose. Panels on skirts are the most popular—loosely flying or caught in under the skirt. Embroidery around the arm holes, and waist line—and all over the skirt except its panels, is the attractive feature of one stunning Paris gown. Another tailored frock is a straight slim affair in black broadcloth embroidered in white. This high-collared, long-sleeved dress has a low waist line in a bloused effect, one side of which is banded with embroidery from shoulder to waist. Not content to stop there it continues its banded way down to the hem itself ending in a point. The general effect is straight to an extreme and very smart.
This season brings us coats, cloaks and coat-wraps. One of the French designers has presented us with a very smart model—a coat—in navy blue poplin. It is cut in Mandarin style and has a very unusual vest. From its embroidered high collar the vest goes to any length in its desire to be noticed, in other words to the hem itself. It is of gray poplin embroidered in Chinese blue and black. Another stunning garment is a coat, also of gray and blue poplin. Its collar is very loose, lined with blue Surur silk in a cravat effect. The upper half of the coat is gray with two long loose panels fastening under the hem of the straight blue skirt. Its sleeves are similarly fitted slightly into a wide belt of striped poplin. Black forms the straight front below the belt. One black satin coat is embroidered over the top half in white in a semi-fitted style while another afternoon wrap of the same material, boasts a panel of black chantilly in the back trimmed with roses of black satin.
And speaking of black lace—that's a subject of utmost importance. One MUST own an afternoon dress of black lace, says Dame Fashion. Evening dresses too, delight in this material. Chantilly is the favorite but black point d'esprit comes in for its share of favor. One charming mode has a kerechief bodice with a ruching edge and a full bouffant skirt of the same material velling knots of flowers on the skirt beneath.
A remarkably pretty dinner dress of French origin introduces us to a black and silver embroidered corage with a high standing collar and buttons and embroidered.
Another skirt intended to worn with a sweater to match made entirely of hand knitted wool and wool. It is slit up one side a few inches and has a wide bone of blocked stitches in a cheekboard pattern. Ivory white flannel another good material for a separate skirt.
All things considered, there seem to be an abundance of styles in every shape of garment Whether one is a business woman a debutante, or a brass one will be sure to find in this son's spring offerings the very pression of her need. In maternal mode and color. It recommends that one sift together three-fourths of a portion of good taste, one-eighth of durability and shake the oughly, with the result that one clothed fresh, chic, charmante, the glow of Spring.
tractive feature of one stunning Paris gown. Another tailored frock is a straight slim affair in black broadcloth embroidered in white. This high-collared, long-sleeved dress has a low waist line in a bloused effect, one side of which is banded with embroidery from shoulder to waist. Not content to stop there it and speaking of black lace—that's a subject of utmost importance. One MUST own an afternoon dress of black lace, says Dame Fashion. Evening dresses, too, delight in this material. Chantilly is the favorite but black point d'esprit comes in for its share of favor. One charming mode has a kerchief bodice with a ruching edge and a full bouffant skirt of the same material veiling knots of flowers on the skirt beneath.
A remarkably pretty dinner dress of French origin introduces us to a black and silver embroidered corsage with a high standing collar and very short sleeves. Its skirt is black satin with flounces of black chantilly over each hip. Flat made roses of silver ribbon appear twice. One partly conceals itself in the draped lace the other is bold and plants itself on the lower edge of the corsage.
Evening dresses have developed two distinct styles. One may choose the type best expressing one's personality. One mode is long and slim, draped in princess lines, featur panels in the back or trains at the sides. It has this in common with the other, more youthful model, that it practically has no back at all.
The other type shows an 1830 frock with long low fitted bodice, with a full flared skirt. Some of them remind us of Velasquez with the pointed bodice, and the full flounces at the hips. As afternoon gowns are dark, so evening gowns are generally light in pastel tints in green, mauve, turquoise blue and yellow.
For the woman who elects a smart spring suit this season, there immediately arises the question of blouses. Whether tailored or for dress, designs are in abundance with many variations of color and materials. One combination is a panelled blouse, the panels made of silk tricolor, the full kimona sleeves and sides in matching crepe de chine. In fact silk tricolor is the most popular material, some of the new varieties of which are metal run. Over blouses are in great demand, finishing with an elastic band at the waist or loosely belted with ribbon. Both sleeves and collars are given a wide range of styles this year. Long tight sleeves snugly buttoned seem to vie with short and three-quarter lengths. Collars may be low or high—when high one may wear them buttoned or open just as one likes.
Bright colors they tell us are
Tuesday, March 1, 1921
New York Letter
by Lucy Jeanne Price
NEW YORK, March 1.—With the twin ambitions of owning a farm on the Pacific Coast and of marrying an American girl with money in her own name, a real baron has once more landed in our midst. He arrived somewhat in disguise, but fairy princes generally used to be expected to do that. His disguise was quite old-time, too. He came as a cowherd, did Baron Rolf Heyking, son of a family prominent in Russian nobility, who fled from that country when Kerensky came into power. He has been wandering homeless since then, and so quite naturally turned at last to America. His knowledge of animals learned on his father's estates, got him a job on a cattle ship, and here he is. "I have a little money," he said cheerfully, "and I am a baron and all that. So maybe I won't have any trouble marrying some wealthy along, hoisted the front of the truck onto their wrecking outfit and drove away. Naturally the policeman that they had been sent for to take away a broken truck. The thought of theft didn't enter his mind in connection with such an orderly proceeding as he had witnessed.
The Britsher has learned to wait. That, according to P. Harvey Middleton, of the Guaranty Trust Company's foreign trade bureau, is one great and particular reason why he is a successful exporter. "They (the British) have found it just as difficult as American exporters have found it to get cash from European buyers." Mr. Middleton says, "And have suffered more intensive production handicaps during the past five years than have American producers. But the Britsher has learned by long experience that periods of economic depression are good times in which to lay the foundation abroad for future business and he has learned to wait. More than all, he knows that foreign markets cannot be neglected when domestic demands are attractive and then recaptured just when they are needed. He sets aside enough of his product for export to keep his brands and trade marks 'in the market,' and to let his foreign consumers know that they are not being altogether forgotten. The result of that policy is markedly evidenced in the latest figures of British overseas commerce." The necessity of appreciation by American manufacturers of the importance of a similar policy on their part will be one of the notes emphasized at the National Foreign Trade Convention to be held next May in Cleveland.
Did you know that left and right shoes don't sail on the same ship? I didn't until the other day when my veteran seaman, watching the loaded trucks going to and from the piers down at West street, began to reminisce. Wonder if seamen were monster in the old days. Anyway, they always used to ship shoes likeairs. His companion explained his perplexity: "Ave, didn't you know?"
Spring Fashion's Garden
Lowe Dixon
Her skirt intended to be with a sweater to match is tirely of hand knitted silk. It is silt up one side for patches and has a wide bordered stitches in a checkerboard. Ivory white flannel is good material for a separations considered, there really be an abundance of new every shape of garment. One is a business woman or ante, a matron, or a bride, be sure to find in this sealing offerings the very ex-for her need, in material, and color. It recommended sift together three-fourths of good taste, one-eight of consideration and one-durability and shake thor-with the result that one is fresh, chic, charmante, in of Spring.
American girl." For a people who produce such gloomy literature, the Russians seem to be quite optimists at times.
Our first boatload of German immigrants since before the war arrived the other day, 2700 of them. But they were wild animals brought over from Hamburg by Louis Ruhe, an animal trainer and exhibitor of this city. The collection is being housed on Long Island temporarily.
Mere bulk no longer impedes our modern robbers of the highway. An American Express Company detective tells of a small truck laden with about $2000 worth of merchandise, which stopped at a Madison Avenue corner. The driver locked his steering wheel and entered a building. When he came out ten minutes later the truck was gone. The corner policeman told him that five minutes before a wrecking crew came
Did you know that left and right shoes don't sail on the same ship? I didn't until the other day when my veteran seaman, watching the loaded trucks going to and from the pliers down at West street, began to reminisce. Wonder if seamen were monster in the old days. Anyway they always used to ship shoes in pairs. His companion explained his perplexity: "Aye, didn't you know?" the seaman said. "Nowadays a shipper sends all the left shoes on one ship and all the right shoes on another, so if the thriving seamen gets into the cargo hold he won't be able to steal anything."
The drift of society women into business continues. Now it's the charms and profits of a beauty parlor that have captured the interest of one of New York's socially prominent Mrs. Cora Van Norden Coplinger was overseen throughout the war working first for the French Red Cross and then as a doughnut girl in our Salvation Army. She was decorated by the French, Serbian and Greek governments. She found her old life monotonous when she tried to take it up again after the war, and her beauty parlor is the result. She has engaged specialists, of course, for the various phases of beautifying, but is learning them all herself, as well.
Nearly 100 Fashion Tractors are owned by shrewd and efficient ranchers and business men in and around Anaheim, Stop, think, investigate. "There must be a reason," Anaheim Motor Co., agents.
WHEN in the course of fashionable events, the call of an entirely new regime in styledom ushers in a newer mode, reflecting greater freedom in design and richer treatment in execution, we who represent the women-folk of our city at the Court of Queen Fashion — take pride in holding this Inaugural of Spring Wear, gathered in its variety and beauty from every center of fashion-inspiration exclusively for our patrons.
LET US PRESENT THESE
EXCLUSIVE ORIGINATIONS
pride in holding this Inaugural of Spring Wear, gathered in its variety and beauty from every center of fashion-inspiration exclusively for our patrons.
LET US PRESENT THESE EXCLUSIVE ORIGINATIONS
Smart Suits
Here are the new short jacketed suits, some in box coated models, some in novel boleros, some in fancy belted effects, but all of them chic in mode and exclusive in design—
$18 to $50
Wraps and Coats
Among these are the new two-color effect coats, and a host of models in the new loose straight-line coats, also novelties in blouse-back outer garments with low waisted belting. All original—
$12.75 to $35
Dainty Dresses
The new chemise models in simple, straight lines are here; also the canton crepe and the new taffeta dresses for afternoon wear. Each mode represented is in models exclusively select for our own showing.
$18 to $39.75
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