oc-plain-dealer 1923-09-12

PAGE TWO Leading the way to Winter Smartness by Muriel Mertens After the hot summer months how welcome the smart darker modes of fall are! And what a relief it is to see them after the riot of summer's colors. In a clever new tailored frock the foot of the skirt. Very popular also is the three tlered skirt—sometimes of pleated ruffles, at others of wide bias bands. These bands which are so popular in the more tailored mode are used for the closely the mo tremely long ered. This wa the back and consists of tw However, th After the hot summer months how welcome the smart darker modes of fall are! And what a relief it is to see them after the riot of summer's colors. In a clever new tailored frock and a smart little toque every woman feels that she is at least on her way to meet the gaitles of a new winter season. Blue serge is returning once more to the height of fashion. Of course every American woman will be glad to hear that, for even though blue serge may fall temporarily in the estimation of the smart Parisienne, the well dressed American woman never lets it quite get out of fashion. And wise she is, for blue serge is so youthful and trimly becoming; and there are occasions when a blue serge frock seems to be the only thing quite suitable to wear. Coat Dresses Are Good And when fashion develops the ever useful coat dress in blue serge, the result is a frock which is perfectly stunning as well as suitable for almost every day time occasion. The silhouette of these street frocks is usually very straight and slender. Sometimes there is no belt or girdle of any sort, but the dress is just fastened at the side front with a small self bow on an elaborate buckle. Some very attractive models have a pleated flare of printed silk introductions down the skirt where it closes at the side front. This not only gives a very welcome touch of color but it is very practical for comfort in walking. Another new treatment of the coat frock is to have bias bands running straight around the skirt. Sometimes there are only two or three very wide bands used to give a three tiered effect. On others, one sees these bands very narrow and overlapping from the low waist line to the bottom of the skirt. This gives a little break to the straight silhouette without actually departing from it. Lingerie Collars and Cuffs Lingerie collars and cuffs have returned to the mode—especially for these coat dresses. On the more tail- Lingerie Collars and Cuffs Lingerie collars and cuffs have returned to the mode—especially for these coat dresses. On the more tailored models one is very apt to see the severe smartness of a white pique collar and cuff either turned down over the hand to the knuckles or turned back gauntlet fashion. It is really too bad that white pique ever goes out of fashion because it is supremely becoming to almost every type. So smartly trim and immaculate its spotless whitness always seems to make the complexion more fresh and youthful. So now that it is so popular the wise woman will make good use of her opportunity and wear it while she may. Linen and organdle collars and chemisettes are also worn with smartness. However, collars and cuffs are all made very simple and without elaboration. And now satin has gained great headway over flat crepe and crepe de chine for the smart, new afternoon frock. And running it a very close second is moire silk. The silhouette of the afternoon frik allows itself greater liberties with the fashion and makes no attempt to follow slavishly the straight lines of the frock coat. The long waist and soft straight skirt, which we have worn so becomingly—for several seasons are very good—but to bring them quite up to the moment, pleated or circular ruffles and bias bands must be used to make them a big more fashionably decorative. And it is in the use of the ruffles and bands that the mode seems to have a tendency to glance back to the fashions of 1880. Sometimes the pleated ruffle will be around the bottom of the skirt and wending its way up the side of the low waist line. On others a wide circular ruffle will fall from the knees to THE PLAIN DEALER FASHION SECTION Pleats Are Good Pleats and still more pleats are quite the vogue. Frequently one sees a charming frock, which is pleated right from the neck to the hemline. And pleats are found in the ruffles of a frock as well as in the silk in a very short cap or else there is no sleeve at all. The Winter Coat First, last and always, the winter coat is long. No matter what other claims to smartness it may have, if it is not long it is not in the mode. In fact, all the winter coats come right to the angle so that by no possibility may a dress show beneato them. The long slim silhouette is quite the thing for winter. These coats frequently tie or buckle on the side as the coat dress does, but they are never seen with a belt or girdle. The bias folds from the hipline down to the bottom of the coat, which ever so slightly break the straightness of the silhouette, are seen on many of the smart new models. The coat sleeve is usually a long popular skirt—files, at these in the for the extremely long waist heavily embroidered. This waist has buttons down the back and a large bow. The skirt consists of two full pleated ruffles. However, this 1880 movement is far only a temporary al auou au popular skirt—files, at these in the charm bands which fall one side. are folds lower back more closely the mode of 1880 has an extremely long waist heavily embroidered. This waist has buttons down the back and a large bow. The skirt consists of two full pleated ruffles. However, this 1880 movement is so far, only a temporary al auou au so far, only a tendency. Whether it will grow until it invades the realm of the tailleur is very uncertain. And though many a new and smart afternoon frock is designed on the straighter lines, certainly the 1880 influence is quite the strongest. Pleats Are Good Pleats and still more pleats are quite the vogue. Frequently one sees a charming frock, which is pleated right from the neck to the hemline. And pleats are found in the ruffles of a frock as well as in the silk insert of a coat frock as wella19 mh sort of a coat frock. In fact, everything that can be pleated, is pleated. Of course, th elong tight sleeve, or the long, rather snug bell sleeve is the thing for the tailleur. But for afternoon frocks, the sleeve may be The coat sleeve is usually a long bell sleeve but at times there are graceful capes over either arm. How ever, this cape is never allowed to break the straightness of the back. The high fur collar and deep fur cuffs add to the winter time charm and comfort. Fall Open UTUMN comes bedecking Nature with her glorious tones and in their depths, prismatic in their blends—lending inspiration and those privileged to shape milady's styles for the season. With signing; talent in the artistic touches of color and ornamentation find here now in almost bewildering display and variety in new of those wearables which develop style-correctness, dress refinement and which is inherent in the uncommon. College Girl" Corsets selection of this popular of Corsets embrace more twenty-five models, and is a model for every fig-riced low and satisfaction assured from every stand-of Style, Comfort and SEBASTIAN BROS. 119 W. Center St. Anaheim, Calif. .00—to—$5.00 Wednesday, September 12, 1923 New Fall Millinery Is Entrancingly Novel! Milady will be delighted at the unusual trimming and shapes that have come forth this Autumn. There is a trend toward the small draped Hat, but the ever becoming large Hat also is evident in striking form, smartly trimmed with jeweled buckles, pins, patterns and embroideries. Vogue Shoppe There is a trend toward the small draped Hat, but the ever becoming large Hat also is evident in striking form, smartly trimmed with jeweled buckles, pins, patterns and embroideries. Vogue Shoppe "Where Style Is Inexpensive" 216 West Center St. Anaheim Calif. Beautiful Fall Millinery You'll pronounce this our most charming and fascinating line than any season of the past. While the collection is of the highest standard, our prices are held at— $4.95——$6.95 than any season of the past. While the collection is of the highest standard, our prices are held at— $4.95——$6.95 glorious tones and tints—hues rich leading inspiration and suggestion to the season. With deftness in deor and ornamentation—such you'll y and variety in new Fall modes ess refinement and that distinction ROS. heim, Calif. Finest Quality Silk Hosiery At the Price named we show only all Pure Silk Hosiery, every pair guaranteed asbolute perfect. Every desired shade can be had in the price range named, and we particularly invite you to inspect our fine Hosiery line. $1.00——to——$3.50